How 6 Indigenous Designers Are Using Fashion to Reclaim Their Culture

The line between inspiration and appropriation in fashion is oftentimes blurred. Nobody knows this better than the indigenous community, whose sacred prints, hand-burnished leatherwork, and beaded appliqués have been imitated by fashion houses for centuries. This type of cultural appropriation, where labels draw from deep-rooted design codes without crediting the culture they are taking them from, is particularly harmful to indigenous people, who have been, and continue to be, marginalized. But now, a new crop of indigenous designers in North America is fighting back, using their collections to spotlight cultural activism and grassroots movements that are more important now than ever—especially given recent events, such as the pipeline protests at Standing Rock.

These unique designers hail from a variety of distinctive tribes, from Ojibwe to Kiowa, and are fusing their cultures’ time-honored craftsmanship with new, unexpected flourishes, such as graphic silk screen or 3-D printing. The unifying message? Reclaiming their heritage in a time when indigenous people continue to remain invisible. The collections, which range from jewelry to ready-to-wear, find inspiration in traditionally meaningful elements such as animals, historical government documents, and ornate regalia pieces, such as the powwow dresses worn by Crees, Crows, and many other groups, each one different in nature. “The biggest misconception about indigenous design is that it’s all the same,” said designer Bethany Yellowtail. “Crows are very different than Navajos, and Cheyennes are very different than Ojibwes. It’s really important to tell those stories through our design.”

Thankfully, indigenous fashion is finally gaining some ground. This week, Toronto will follow in the footsteps of Australia and Vancouver, British Columbia, by hosting its first-ever Indigenous Fashion Week. This four-day initiative will give designers a much-needed platform and serves as a promising counterpoint to the pervasive appropriation still found on today’s runways. “When an indigenous person can take up space and present an honest, individual point of view of who they are, that is incredibly powerful,” said designer Evan Ducharme. It will feature runway shows from designers such as Ducharme, panel discussions about cultural appropriation, and a shoppable marketplace stocked with authentic indigenous-made products. (Last year, the “Native Fashion Now” exhibition was also hosted at the National Museum of the American Indian in New York City, which displayed the disruptive works of more than 60 indigenous designers.)

Below, meet six rising indigenous talents from across North America as they sound off on their latest collections, the need for activism, and the power of reconciliation.

Bethany Yellowtail
Label: B.Yellowtail
Tribe: Crow and Northern Cheyenne
Based in: Los Angeles, California

Ladies, rock the floral print trend by following these easy tips

Floral prints are perfect for summers.

With the mercury level rising day-by-day, it gets little tough to keep your fashion goals intact. However the floral fabrics can add glamour to your look if opted wisely. Sandeep Sharma, Director, Fabriclore.com suggests some tips:

* Landscaped floral mughal motifs on cotton and chanderi silk: Perfectly landscaped Mughal twigs, buds, leaves, flowers and bouquets on cotton and chanderi silk fabrics look exquisite. Ankle-length mughal cotton maxi dresses for instance, are a perfect fusion of ethnicity and modern style.

* Abstract florals and vines on rayon: The flow-y rayon fabric screen-printed with abstract floral designs like blooming flowers, sun-like buds, creepers, paper-cut flowers, and painted roses in bright colours can be shaped into knee-length skater dresses, long ankle-length dresses, straight kurtas and palazzos, crop tops and skirts, for a contemporary take on florals.

* Pastel contemporary florals on crepe and chiffon: Digital prints done in a contemporary colour palette on fabrics like chiffon and crepe are the best fit for summer wears. Floral designs reflecting the real-life flora, painted in abstract dual-tones look refreshing yet chic on a bright sunny day.

* Muted minimal floral prints on muslin: Muted Coral floral designs on a loosely plain-woven fabric like Muslin, which comes with good durability, has a soft texture with a subtle shine. Perfect for causal evening outings, hand-block Mughal motifs or contemporary flowers in pastel colours spread out a sophisticated vibe.

Sulagna Kapoor, co-founder of Pursu also shares a few tips:

*Once an individual feels confident with the flower power, it is time to try pairing floral prints with each other to give that vibrant yet subtle look. Pair it with a nice floral print handbag to add on to your look.

* Summer is a perfect time to carry pastel shades. Pastels are soothing to the eyes and have an inherent quality to make you look cool. To spike up the over all look, a trendy printed handbag is a must addition.

* Dainty and bold floral prints should be properly paired with each other to reveal the best possible combination. For a summer party, pair your solid coluor dress with a floral patterned clutch or handbag.

* Accessories like flower-inspired jewellery paired with a multicoloured floral print handbag and coordinated footwear are all that an individual should flaunt, during any summer event.

* Subtle floral print handbags can be combined with white / off-white dresses, to make a style statement.

* Denims with gingham or solid shirts are an all time hit. Add a printed handbag to complete the look this summer.

Red carpet looks that dazzled Cannes

Actresses proved you can protest while being beautifully dressed (AFP Photo/LOIC VENANCE)

Actresses proved you can protest while being beautifully dressed

 

 

Cate Blanchett's spectacular blue Mary Katrantzou ball gown that took six months to make (AFP Photo/Valery HACHE)

Cate Blanchett’s spectacular blue Mary Katrantzou ball gown that took six months to make

Black and mixed-race French actresses lit up Cannes protesting the discrimination and stereotyping they have suffered (AFP Photo/Alberto PIZZOLI)

Black and mixed-race French actresses lit up Cannes protesting the discrimination and stereotyping they have suffered

Spike Lee dusted down his Love and Hate knuckleduster rings from "Do the Right Thing" for his "BlacKkKlansman" premiere (AFP Photo/Anne-Christine POUJOULAT            )

Spike Lee dusted down his Love and Hate knuckleduster rings from “Do the Right Thing” for his “BlacKkKlansman” premiere

Jury member Kristen Stewart threw off her stilettos and walked barefoot along the red carpet (AFP Photo/Valery HACHE)

Jury member Kristen Stewart threw off her stilettos and walked barefoot along the red carpet

Bollywood star Aishwarya Rai's peacock and butterfly-style gown had the longest train seen on the red carpet (AFP Photo/Anne-Christine POUJOULAT)

Bollywood star Aishwarya Rai’s peacock and butterfly-style gown had the longest train seen on the red carpet

Japanese actress Erika Karata had to be rescued twice by her co-stars when she got her heel stuck in her dress (AFP Photo/Valery HACHE)

Japanese actress Erika Karata had to be rescued twice by her co-stars when she got her heel stuck in her dress

 

 

Cannes (France) (AFP) – With two powerful protests by female stars calling for equal pay and treatment, the red carpet at the Cannes film festival — which ends Sunday — was about much more than fashion statements.

But that did not dim the glamour of the gala premieres. We look back on 12 days and nights of glitz, as well as the occasional wardrobe malfunction, on the French Riviera.

– Who’s wearing the trousers? –

The Cannes red carpet has seen a lot in 71 years. But few nights will live longer in the memory than the one when female stars led by jury president Cate Blanchett protested about the festival’s epic fail when it comes to women directors. All but 82 films of the near 1,700 shown at Cannes over the years have been by men.

This was also possibly the best-dressed demo in history, with Kristen Stewart rocking a white Chanel trouser suit and many others following #MeToo protests elsewhere by dressing in black. This was a Cannes where women wore the trousers — once frowned upon by the festival’s dress code — with Blanchett killing it with a black Givenchy jumpsuit for the premiere of “Capernaum”.

– Queen Cate –

No one does regal better than Blanchett who made her name playing British monarch Elizabeth I. Her intelligence and poise gave the festival a new sheen, from her speech at the protest to her insistence that the jury will chose the best film, not the one that best fits the political narrative.

Her wardrobe choices were equally impeccable at more than a dozen galas. Two black Armani numbers contrasted with an intricate avant-garde Iris van Herpen dress. And she brought the house down with a spectacular blue Mary Katrantzou ball gown that took six months to make. The dress also delivered the cutest photo of the festival when her daughter hid under her skirts as she left her hotel room.

– Black is back –

Black and mixed-race French actresses showed how to be angry and elegant in their protest on the red carpet about the shocking discrimination and stereotyping they have suffered. Dressed in Balmain they lit up Cannes on the wettest night of the festival and were clapped up the carpet by jury member Khadja Nin.

The Burundian singer has given Blanchett a run for her money with some seriously sassy wax print dresses and headwraps while Spike Lee dusted down his Love and Hate knuckleduster rings from “Do the Right Thing” for his “BlacKkKlansman” premiere.

– Kicking ass barefoot –

After “Heelgate” in 2015 when women were stopped on the red carpet for not wearing high heels, Cannes “sexist” dress code — since revised — took a bit of a kicking this year with jury member Kristen Stewart throwing off her stilettos and walking barefoot up the steps for “BlacKkKlansman”.

A few nights later she ground convention further into the dust with an androgynous black Chanel jacket and leather trousers and loafers. Italian director Alice Rohrwacher, whose quirky “Happy as Lazzaro” is in the running for the Palme d’Or top prize, took gender reversal to a new level by wearing a man’s shirt backwards for her press conference.

– Butterfly gothic –

Indian icon Aishwarya Rai and Iranian actress Marziyeh Rezaei wore two of the most photographed dresses — for very different reasons. The train of the Bollywood’s star’s peacock/butterfly Michael Cinco dress was the longest seen on the red carpet for many a year, while Rezaei’s was a spectacularly modest shimmering tulle number channelling the most gothic of fairytales.

– A slight snag… –

And you have to feel sorry for the super chic Japanese actress Erika Karata who had to be rescued not once but twice by her co-stars from “Asako 1 & 2” when she got her heel stuck in her dress on the famous Cannes red carpet.

Paris Hilton shines in gold gown while showing off engagement ring at Cannes Fashion For Relief gala

Paris Hilton wowed in a gold sleeveless gown on Sunday night at the Cannes Fashion For Relief gala.

The 37-year-old Hilton heiress, who came dripping in diamonds, showed off her 20-carat, pear shaped engagement ring on the red carpet.

Fashion For Relief is a non-profit organization, lead by supermodel Naomi Campbell, that raises money for various causes.

Pretty princess: Paris Hilton wowed in a gold sleeveless gown by Christophe Guillarme on Sunday night at the Cannes Fashion For Relief gala

Pretty princess: Paris Hilton wowed in a gold sleeveless gown by Christophe Guillarme on Sunday night at the Cannes Fashion For Relief gala

What a rock: The 37-year-old Hilton heiress, who came dripping in diamonds, showed off her 20-carat, pear shaped engagement ring on the red carpet

What a rock: The 37-year-old Hilton heiress, who came dripping in diamonds, showed off her 20-carat, pear shaped engagement ring on the red carpet

Bling: Paris couldn't stop staring at her massive diamond 

Bling: Paris couldn’t stop staring at her massive diamond

The evening of glitz and glamour included a guest list of over 1,000 people.

Attendees enjoyed dinner, live entertainment, an auction, and a fashion show.

Hilton, who traveled to Cannes with fiance Chris Zylka, flew solo for the event.

Giving back: Fashion For Relief is a non-profit organization, lead by supermodel Naomi Campbell, that raises money for various causes

Giving back: Fashion For Relief is a non-profit organization, lead by supermodel Naomi Campbell, that raises money for various causes

All smiles: Hilton paired her ring with a diamond watch and choker  

All smiles: Hilton paired her ring with a diamond watch and choker

Cannes club: Paris is set to host and DJ a party at the VIP Room on Monday night in France 

Paris is set to host and DJ a party at the VIP Room on Monday night.

She made her DJ debut back in June 2012 and currently has a residency at Amnesia nightclub in Ibiza.

‘My first show was in Brazil. Like 30,000 people, closing for Jennifer Lopez, it was so much fun,’ she told Billboard in an interview.

‘I loved it so much that after that I really just got more into it. I’ve just been having the time of my life. I didn’t realize what a huge success I would be.’

Front row: The evening of glitz and glamour included a guest list of over 1,000 people

Front row: The evening of glitz and glamour included a guest list of over 1,000 people

Do a twirl: Paris, who traveled to Cannes with fiance Chris Zylka, flew solo for the event 

Do a twirl: Paris, who traveled to Cannes with fiance Chris Zylka, flew solo for the event

Fashion For Relief: Attendees enjoyed dinner, live entertainment, an auction, and a fashion show throughout the evening 

Fashion For Relief: Attendees enjoyed dinner, live entertainment, an auction, and a fashion show throughout the evening

The Simple Life star is in the process of planning her wedding to Zylka, 32.

During the iHeartRadio Music Awards, she revealed to ET that the pair plan to tie the knot later this year, but noted that picking a date has proved difficult due to her large family.

‘First we have the engagement party, the bridal party, and then the wedding,’ she said. ‘We’re still picking a date that’s perfect for everyone in the family. My brother is getting married in June so we’re gonna separate a few more months after that.’

Oscars 2018: Celebs flaunt everything as NAKED dress trend hits red carpet

Naked fashion is the most out-there trend of 2018 – and it’s showing no signs of slowing down.

We’ve seen countless sheer ensembles at fashion weeks around the world over the past few months.

And celebs at last night’s Oscars took the trend on board as they turned up in some seriously skimpy outfits.

Alessandra Ambrosio AND Bleona QeretiGETTY/REX

NAKED DRESS: Alessandra Ambrosio and Bleona Qereti rocked the sheer dress trend

Alessandra AmbrosioGETTY

COPY CAT: Alessandra’s Ralph & Russo dress was showcased at Paris Fashion Week in January

Bleona Qereti and Alessandra Ambrosio were two of the stars who rocked the daring look, which has even hit the high-street in recent weeks.

Alessandra arrived at the 2018 Vanity Fair Oscar Party wearing a totally see-through dress, which was featured at Paris Fashion Week back in January.

The Victoria’s Secret model left little to the imagination as she paraded her enviable figure in the Ralph & Russo Couture gown.

The nude dress, which is thinly covered by sparkling details, features a hip-high slit and romantic off-the-shoulder straps.

Alessandra teamed the daring ensemble with simple gold stilettos, nude nails and tousled tresses.

People praised the dress back in January when it first hit the catwalk.

One Twitter user said: “Ralph & Russo will never disappoint me.”

Another added: “I have no words for how absolutely in love I am with this.”

Bleona QeretiREX

GET THE LOOK: Bleona’s outfit was very similar this catwalk look from London Fashion Week

The Only 8 Pieces You Need This Season, According To R29 Editors

“This season, more than any other season, I channel my personal style through dresses — from feminine silhouettes with bold patterns to adorable denim frocks (like this Givenchy one) — that make me feel like I’m taken back to the summer of ’69.” —Alyssa Coscarelli, senior fashion market editor.

“My wardrobe tends to be black, black, black, but summer is the one time of year I allow myself to break out a tiny bit of color. This pink bag is the perfect way to welcome the season (and a little color).” —Rebecca Smith, managing editor

“Whether I’m snoozing on the beach or just being plain extra at bottomless brunch, you’ll never find me far from a floppy straw sun hat. Nothing reads OOO vibes more than this one — literally.” —Allie Briggs, fashion and beauty writer

“Somewhat unintentionally, it turns out all of the jeans and skirts I own are black. So really my only hope for bringing some seasonal vibes into my wardrobe is through a few bright-colored tops. Luckily, this sunny striped tee is perfect for doing just that.” —Ali Ives, fashion editor

“I love to slip into espadrille sandals. They’re that perfect mix of comfy and chic — and transition seamlessly from work to happy hour. If you don’t consider yourself a heels girl, this is the perfect closed-toe platform sandal to kick off the season in.” —Nana Agyemang, fashion and beauty content strategy editor

“Hoops are a pretty basic staple in my wardrobe. I find I reach for my thicker, bolder ones a lot in summer when temperatures dictate wearing anything that won’t stick to me. Big gold hoops are the perfect way to make a lazy outfit look intentional.” —Channing Hargrove, fashion news writer

 

“Phasing out my go-to leather shoulder bag for a straw bag is one of the most exciting parts of this season for me. It’s just the right amount of unfussy (while still feeling like I care about what I’m wearing) and works equally well at the beach and brunch. —Lucy Meilus, senior lifestyle and entertainment editor.

“I’ve always been a fan of casual, cutesy summer jumpsuits. They’re beyond easy to pull off and are the ultimate one-and-done for when you’re in a rush to get ready. Plus, who doesn’t love a little ruffle?” —Claire Fontanetta, senior beauty editor

Princess Diana’s Cannes Dress Was Bluer Than the Sky and as Whimsical as a Dream

Princess Diana Cannes Film Festival Dresses

The Cannes Film Festival has always been one of the most glamorous events of the year, attracting Hollywood stars, models, and royalty alike. But while stars consistently shine thanks to the most incredible gowns, no one has marked the red carpet quite like Princess Diana.

Back in 1987, when she was just 26 years old, the Princess of Wales stunned everyone when she stepped out on the Croisette, wearing what has since become one of her most iconic outfits. As we watch to see what everyone wears this time around, read on to see the two Catherine Walker ensembles that Diana wore over 20 years ago.

For her first appearance on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, Diana wore a puffy Catherine Walker dress with a double-breasted white blazer.

She accessorised her outfit with black-and-white pumps.

 

For her evening look, Princess Diana opted for an incredibly glamorous gown.

 

She accessorised it with a shawl and chandelier earrings.

We Hope Cindy Crawford Attends the Met Gala, Because Her Past Looks Were Unforgettable

Cindy Crawford Met Gala Dresses

 

Cindy Crawford is a red carpet fixture. Though she’s only publicly been photographed at the Met Gala twice, in 2016 and in 2009, we know she dominates every event she walks into. The supermodel has a legion of fans, so it’s no wonder everyone’s waiting to see what she’ll do or wear next (perhaps she’ll make another runway appearance?).

Now that Cindy’s passed the modeling torch off to her daughter, Kaia Gerber, we expect the duo to make more red carpet appearances together. While neither has posted about attending this year’s Met Gala, like some stars, we hope they come as a pair. Take a look at Cindy’s past outfits, then tune into the red carpet on Monday, May 7.

A Close Up of All the Metallic Details

She Met Up With Kendall on the Red Carpet

And Olivier Rousteing Himself

Cindy’s 2009 Met Gala Dress

The Royal Blue Gown Was Created by Versace

 

Cindy and Donatella Versace on the Red Carpet

You Won’t Believe These 11 Chic Dresses Are Less Than $60 — Seriously!

Wear this pretty H&M Dress With Buttons ($40) with your favorite white sneakers.

You’ll want to live in this H&M Kaftan Dress ($35) all season long.

 

You can also get this H&M Patterned Wrap-Front Dress ($25) in yellow or black.

This lightweight H&M V-Neck Dress ($25) is great for hot weather.

Animal-print-lovers, this H&M Balloon-Sleeved Dress ($60) is for you.

You can wear this delicate H&M Lace Dress ($50) to a wedding this Summer.

 

 

Dress up this H&M Striped Wrap-Front Dress ($60) with chic mules.

 

You can wear this versatile H&M Dress With Smocking ($30) to work, date night, and beyond.

 

 

 

You can wear this versatile H&M Dress With Smocking ($30) to work, date night, and beyond.

 

This H&M Dress With Eyelet Embroidery ($60) is all about the back.

Go for a denim look and get this H&M Lyocell Dress ($40).

Finally, a Movie That Gets Prom Dresses Right

Like any person, I’m embarrassed by a lot of what I wore in high school. I look back in horror at the low-slung jeans and the layered tees. For what it’s worth, however, I got one thing right: My prom dress. I found it in a vintage store. It was a ’40s cut with a floral pattern on top and a floor-length, cream-colored skirt that hung straight. It was timeless and flattering and I probably should find a reason to re-wear it.

I flashed back to this outfit, and how proud I was of it, after seeing Kay Cannon’s Blockers. The comedy, about a group of parents trying to stop their daughters from losing their virginities on prom night, is hilarious, moving, and unusually smart about the various ways young women approach sex. It’s respectful of the three girls at its center, and that respect is evident in their prom ensembles. The outfits worn by Julie, Kayla, and Sam — played by Kathryn Newton, Geraldine Viswanathan, and Gideon Adlon — are distinctive and cute, reflecting their wearers’ burgeoning senses of style — just like mine, I’d say. In a movie full of butt-chugging and vomit gags, the fashion is taken refreshingly seriously.

With apologies to the costume designer of Pretty in Pink, the most famous movie prom dress is notable for being hideous. In 1986, Molly Ringwald’s Andie ruined a perfectly nice vintage dress with scissors, creating an ill-advised concoction of pink polka dots and inexplicably bare shoulders. Andie’s dress is unintentionally laughable, but other prom scenes aim for the ridiculous, like when Rose McGowan is outed as a murderer wearing an overwrought updo in Jawbreaker. Most school dance fashion on film, though, is disappointingly bland, filled with spaghetti straps and pastels. Carrie White’s slip dress is unimpressive before being covered with blood; Sandy Olsson’s hand jive attire is basic, white ’50s kitsch.

Photo: Universal Pictures

In Blockers the most traditional dress belongs to Julie, who, in many ways, has the most traditional story line. She’s the first to announce that she’s planning to have sex with her long term — for high school, anyway — boyfriend. She envisions rose petals on the bed and a very specific candle burning.

Costume designer Sarah Mae Burton says she assumed the character would consider her formalwear with the same amount of care. Burton — who was eager to do a prom movie — discovered in her research that today’s teens pour over Pinterest in planning their perfect evening. “I put together a mood board that wasn’t necessarily about the dresses in the images but the feeling they evoked and the sort of very romantic, glamorous evening that [Julie] would be preparing herself for,” she tells the Cut.

Julie’s the kind of girl with a Sixteen Candles poster on her wall. And, true to that ideal, her dress — a modification of a Nha Khanh design — has a full tulle skirt. But it’s also a bold red, almost a hint that unlike the heroine of that movie in pale pink, Julie isn’t going to wait around for a boy to whisk her away. She’s going to orchestrate her own destiny.

Photo: Universal Pictures

Kayla’s dress was chosen with that same sense of identity. Kayla’s life up until this moment has been defined by her athletic achievements. “I remember those girls from high school that you were like, Damn, I haven’t seen you wear anything but sweatshorts like ever,” Burton says. That’s Kayla, and her two-piece reflects that. She bares the most skin of any of her friends — to the dismay of her overprotective dad (John Cena) — but at the same time she’s showing off her physical accomplishments.

As Burton notes, the top has a sports bra feel. The material is sparkly and sturdy. It works in conjunction with Kayla’s chill but focused personality. She’s up for trying anything her druggie date has brought along, but she’s also totally in control. While she ultimately decides she’s not ready to have sex, she’s not going to completely deny her own pleasure. Instead, she suggests her dude go down on her. He does.

According to Burton, Sam was the hardest to dress. Of the trio, she has the most nuanced arc: She begins the film closeted, going along with her friends’ sex pact because she doesn’t want to be left out of their shared experience, but over the course of the night embraces her own desires. An early draft of the script noted that she had a crush on Tilda Swinton, so Burton first tried some asymmetrical, Swinton-esque gowns on her. But when Adlon tried on the Self Portrait gown she ended up wearing, her character came into focus. Its Wednesday Addams white collar and Edward Gorey color scheme nod to her interest in fantasy without being overt.

By contrast, Sam’s love interest Angelica (Ramona Young) fully embraces a Lord of the Rings aesthetic, wearing a cloak she designed for Galadriel cosplay. Initially, the script called for Angelica to wear a tuxedo, but Burton demurred: “The more we dug into it it was like, okay, why does the one [already out] gay female character have to be in men’s clothing? Why can’t she be in a beautiful dress?”

The realities of production required Burton to alter the off-the-rack items she found for Julie, Kayla, and Sam. All the skirts were cropped shorter since mobility is key in the hijink-heavy, sometimes messy plot. She also needed to wrestle up multiples, which sometimes meant frankensteining new dresses from pieces with similar fabric. Still, Burton wanted some element of verisimilitude. Kayla’s outfit came from Ellie Wilde, a prom line under bridal retailer Mon Cheri, and  extras wore gowns from brands like Sherri Hill and Rachel Allan. The dresses aren’t cheap exactly, but prom is a racket in the real world. (According to a Visa Inc. survey the average cost of prom was $919 in 2014.)  “We wanted to make sure that it was something that felt like they would actually have access to,” Burton says. “Perhaps they saved their allowance or their part time job money toward it.” The dresses don’t feel like they were plucked from the runway, but more crucially, they feel like looks the women wearing them would choose. Maybe in real life they wouldn’t fit quite so well, but I’m willing to accept a little movie magic.

Blockers works because it’s on the side of the high schoolers, and the parents are routinely called out for the insecurity that leads them on their mission. The movie never questions whether these girls are capable of making their own decisions about their bodies — when it comes to both sex and clothes.